Hi Rob,
The trim adhesive is so strong that the headbadge will be near impossible to remove the badge after the trim adhesive fully cures, which is about 2 weeks. Take the trim adhesive, frame and headbadge and put into the sun for 20 minutes. It always seems to bite in better when everything is extra warm. We use heat lamps at the shop and the warm stuff is amazing. When you get it mounted, it better be where you want it, or you will be angry because it acts quick. Put a tad of tape to hold it around your head tube but be careful if using masking tape because many masking tapes leave residues that will not be easy if even possible to come off. Electrical tape works best. Then in 30 minutes it is more/ less permanently on. If you ever want to remove it, get back in touch with me. That is a different, often difficult story. It will take a cup at least of 3M adhesive remover and soaking the trim adhesive by pouring a little bit on and waiting a few minutes then pouring a bit more on. After this has soaked for 20-30 minutes by continually pouring it on, allowing it to eat the trim adhesive, your headbadge can be safely and slowly removed without removing most paint coatings.
Best Regards, John Proch La Grange, Texas
Sent: Mon, October 26, 2009 12:54:54 AM Subject: RE: [CR] Badge adhesive
Nothing wrong with auto body work. Especially here in Nascar country. Thanks for the tips.
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From:John D Proch [mailto:johnprochss@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 1:50 AM To: Robert D. Dayton,Jr. Subject: Re: [CR] Badge adhesive
Hi Rob,
I worked in auto body for a hobby for over 30 years and did it for a living for 5 more and I am not proud of it, but I learned many tricks.
First, use a wax and grease remover (not lacquer thinner because it is too hot or harsh on your bike finish, unless it is powdercoat and this powdercoat will handle anything.
There are 2 things on the market that I believe is best. One is a tube of Silicon glue since this is used to glue aquariums from 5 gallons to 25,000 gallon tanks.
The other option is to go to a body shop and ask the folks for about 6 inches of trim adhesive tape. Keep the tape clean.
If you just want to buy a roll it is about $10-12 dollars a roll at the local O-Riley or Auto Zone Auto Parts Store. For best results, buy 3M.
The best adhesion is that the surfaces are clean. It will have your badge back on your bike when you get home.
Take care.
John Proch La Grange , Texas
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From:"Robert D. Dayton,Jr." <rdayton@carolina.rr.com> To: Scott L. Minneman <minneman@onomy.com>; verktyg <verktyg@aol.com>; Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Sun, October 25, 2009 3:46:52 PM Subject: Re: [CR] Badge adhesive
Would a small tube of 3M Trim Adhesive work? It would be a lot cheaper. Regards, Rob Dayton
-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of Scott L. Minneman Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 2:39 PM To: 'verktyg'; 'Classic Rendezvous' Subject: Re: [CR] Badge adhesive
Not to weigh in on using cyanocrylate glues for this purpose (although some of the rubber-loaded and gap filling formulations would certainly do the trick), but there's a substance call Insta-Set that'll prevent the fogging. It catalyzes the drying process and the thing is placed.
There are also Un-Set formulas that'll clear the fogging, if it happens. Use a Q-Tip or something like that.
That said, I think there are some versions of VHB (serious 3M double-sticky tapes) that are better suited. Their 4926 product is nice and thin, dark gray, good general-purpose adhesive. You'd prefer the adhesive from the 4952 stuff (for lower surface energy materials), but it's only available with much thicker foams (too thick for my tastes). Powdercoat paints aren't *that* low surface energy, in the grand scheme of things, so the regular stuff should be adequate if it's done right. I'd probably use a tape primer on the surfaces, just to be sure. Don't try to make the adhesive substitute for a correctly-contoured badge...shape the thing right beforehand. Make sure your fingers never touch the adhesive surface -- your finger oils ruin it. Once you get the 3M material and supplies, you're probably in for over $30, but you've got a lifetime supply of stuff to attach badges with (but with a limited shelf-life, all of it). Look for other things to fix/attach with tape...it's amazing stuff.
Scott Minneman San Francisco , CA USA
-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of verktyg Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:39 AM To: globallyoff@s2ki.com; Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org; verktyg@aol.com Subject: Re: [CR] Badge adhesive
To add to what Keith said, you probably want to avoid using any of the Cyanoacrylates - crazy glue, instant glue etc.
They out-gas fumes while they're curing or setting up that can leave a difficult to remove "frost" outside of the glued area.
Chas. Colerich Oakland , CA USA
globallyoff@s2ki.com wrote:
> Most auto supply stores sell emblem adhesive (or something with similar
> name).
>
> It works well, and with a hair dryer and some dental floss, you can get
> the badge/emblem off without damaging the paint.
>
> Keith Kessel
> Shreveport , La.
>
> On Fri, October 23, 2009 10:22 pm, Dan Hammack wrote:
>
>> Can anyone recommend a good adhesive for a metal badge
>> to a powdercoated tandem frame I built (super-glue, epoxy,
double-sided
>> tape, etc.)?
>>
>> G Dan Hammack
>> Santa Barbara , CA USA