Ted:
I'm with you, pal. Valve caps do seem to be yet another example of a solution in search of a problem.
At least the "dork nuts" can be pressed into service here and there. I've used them to hastily fit a pair of mudguards recently without having to remove the fixing nut on brake caliper centerbolts because the threading matches. I've also had occasion to ream out the threading with a chainsaw file and use them as bushings to mount a pair of conventional nutted brakes to a frame set up for recessed mounting. After removing threading and enlarging the ID a bit, they can also be used as spacers to fit a front brake caliper to a rear brake bridge by stacking out to the threaded portion so the fixing nut can grab. Definitely a bit of a bodge but it works and saves one from having to remove the chroming, run a die over the unthreaded portion and cutting to length.
Any other examples out there for adaptive reuse of those little knurled nuts?
Charlie Young
Honey Brook, Pennsylvania USA
<r.clair@cox.net>; "Wayne Bingham" <blkmktbks@gmail.com> Cc: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 11:57 PM Subject: Re: [CR] Presta Plastic Valve Caps ?? - Oops
> Well guys and gals:
> Now your talking bling.
> If you wish a show bike then by all means pimp it out.
> If you wish to recreate or have a working bike then throw them in your
> unused stolen hotel ashtray.
> When you flat and have remove the tire in a hurry, there is no time to
> waste removing valve caps, unless your team car is there with a new wheel.
> Even out on a training or plain ol' ride, who wants to bother undoing caps
> and putting them back on, spares and /or original, especially if it's cool
> and you have stiff fingers.
> About the only way a cap comes in handy is if the tire/tube is in a holder
> and the cap would keep the valve point from putting a hole in the
> casing/tube.
> But a cap could rub thru too.
> Of course, the caps come in handy if you wedge them into your hand pump
> valve grommet and then shoot it out at someone across the room. Carefule
> tho, don't hit anyones eyes.
> The same goes for the little outside valve nut.
> When air goes out of the tube it draws the valve into the casing and that
> nut titens up. Often it is so tite that it can't be easily be undone with
> fingers.
> Naturally, the next vehicle will come along and stop to offer you their
> toolkit. NOT.
> Back in the 50's thru '70's most everyone in the know tossed the QR
> springs away also.
> They could jam in the dropouts ore between the axle hole and skewer rod
> When you pulled the wheel into position you would have the QR lever in
> hand and move it right into center. The springs' centering effect was
> useless.
> This was common knowledge among all the coaches, trainers, mechanics, and
> riders I knew and it wasn't even discussed, just done.
> With the neocon invasion, much lore and sound practices were
> forgotten/lost.
> So as nice as these things are, consider your machine's purpose and equip
> accordingly. If you ride it then you know and can educate your colleagues,
> If the machine is being shown, then a little card on the display
> identifying these areas wll enlighten the spectators, make the bike more
> accurate for judging, and give you the satisfaction of having a real bike
> true to it's purpose in your classic stable.
> Ted Ernst
> Palos Verdes Estates
> CA USA