Chas.
I agree, a too thick clearcoat is unbecoming of a fine vintage bike. When I do a final clear, I reduce the heck out of the mixture; the second final coat is reduced even further. With proper tack time between coats and suitable temps. This is as thin as you can get the stuff on. After that is well baked, one can achieve whatever degree of shiny or dull that one chooses. Right down to making it look like a "flat" clear finish. It's all about tiny scratches, or the lack thereof. Simple as that.
Brian Baylis La mesa, CA USA "THIN " is the word! Who the hell came up with "Grease is the Word"? I think NOT!
A word of caution about clear coating. If you have it one, make sure that whoever does the work understands that you just want to preserve the paint and decals.
I've seen so many paint jobs with clearcoat so thick and shiny that all of the lugwork features were lost.
Last week I saw a restoration job in progress at a LBS. It was a mid 70s Colnago Super. The clearcoat was so thick that the lugs looked like bumps!
The degree of luster in clearcoating can be controlled. Most production paint jobs from the CR era were not excessively shiny and I prefer that original appearance.
Chas. Colerich retrogrouch Oakland, CA USA
brianbaylis@juno.com wrote:
> Bret
The sooner you do something about the situation the better. Once done, it will stay that way indefinitely, unless there is some active under the paint somewhere.
I suspect there's no really inexpensive way to do it cheap without risk. On the other hand, one might find that some sort of such product in a can will work. Won't be a tough as Imron, but very well might do the job. If you could have it done for say $75 (plus some possible shipping costs if there is no local bike painter), would it be worth it to you? Even if it cost $150 to do it all, just think about the fact that you just invested a small sum of money and some extra time in dis assembly, packing, and such on this bike. You will have preserved the original patina of the machine in it's current state for probably another 60 or more years, with proper care. If the original paint is basically sound, then 2 coats of Imron (or equivalent paint system) will last and not break down nor admit UV rays to have much of an effect on the paint and graphics. This is especially important if one is going to ride the bike. But deterioration of old style bike paints is unavoidable, even if just stored or displayed. One should also expect to pay a little more if the painter has to clean the frame before painting. It must be dirt and grease free and dried completely. The cleaning must be done carefully so as to avoid damaging the decals. In the end, the expense of preserving the original paint and graphics is a bargain.
> Brian Baylis
> La Mesa, CA
> USA
>