Tony's closer to the truth than any of y'all. Cleaning is the key issue. Grit & Salt are leather's natural enemies.
What follows is mostly a repackaging of stuff I've posted before
And please understand if I take an arrogant tone it's just to quickly tell you what I know to be true. I did time in a leather shop repairing tack and other leather gear that had seen beau coup weather & sweat.
Leather saddles are all I've ever put on my regular riders & the leather lasts last me till they get stolen.
A/ The leather product you use is not as important as....
--Preparing the new or recently restored saddle before use
--Keeping the leather CLEAN of grit, grease, & salt
--HOW you clean it and rinse it
--HOW you use the oil restorer
B/ Neat's Foot Oil is passable stuff----if it's all ya got---BUT....
--Don't use NFO before CLEANING the leather. Surface dirt/salt will be carried deeper into the fibers
--Don't slather it on unless the saddle is bone dry and cracked. A little bit rubbed between your two hands & then onto the saddle does it. Don't waste the excess oil on a rag; lanolin (while it's fresh) is good hand lotion. That's for the top. On the underside a half-inch bristle paint brush can be used but take care to apply only a very thin coat.
--Too much NFO will soften and stretch a saddle even at the rivets.
--LEXOL is much better at what NFO is for.
C/ PROOFIDE or one of the other quality saddle waxes.....
--Is the proper stuff to use for boiled-leather, hammock-saddle preservation
--Should also be used sparingly
--can be topped off with a clear layer of a Carnuba wax like KIWI Parade for additional durability
--should be used on your NEW saddle-skin--both top & underside BEFORE you risk getting dirt & salt into the fibers.
I've posted my POV on cleaning techniques sometime awhile back.
-- Calvert Guthrie Broom Director KC Center for the Ink & Paper Arts 1427 West 9th Street, Kansas City Missouri 64101
inkknife.org
calvertguthrie@gmail.com