Re: [CR] Teardown/Cleaning Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs

(Example: Framebuilders:Mario Confente)

Content-class: urn:content-classes:message
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 14:34:43 -0700
In-Reply-To: <4BEC63EE.2070404@m-gineering.nl>
Thread-Topic: [CR] Teardown/Cleaning Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs
thread-index: Acry3LCN5WB8lmUWTGCKfkTOgPZWLAABUFHA
References: <BLU147-W61A9E517987F93B13148FD6FC0@phx.gbl> <4BEC5F04.3090701@gmail.com>
From: "Mark Bulgier" <Mark@bulgier.net>
To: "M-gineering" <info@m-gineering.nl>
Cc: "Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org" <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Subject: Re: [CR] Teardown/Cleaning Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs


Jim Allen wrote:
> > Sturmey Archer 3 Speed AW hubs come apart from the non-drive
> > side, with a left handed thread. Utilize the notches built
> > into the left side to knock it loose.

Marten Gerritsen replied:
> The usual procedure for the AW is to remove the sprocket and the lh
> cone, unscrew the rh ball ring and withdraw the assembly towards
> the right. Don't think that the NDS side is even removable on the
> later versions

Marten is right, disassemble on the right hand side. Left-side ball cups haven't been threaded since some time in the early-60s I think (someone here will know the exact date no doubt), but I still recommend removal from the right even if you have a threaded left cup. If only so that you can follow along with the S-A service manual or any of a number of books that have described taking it apart that way.

Have a care when you reassemble that right ball ring to the hub shell, it uses a double-start thread. Hard to describe, just look at it in good light, you can see it is a double-helix, very unusual thread type. If you start threading it in wrong, it will go in almost all the way but will stop short and you'll have a thin gap between the shell and the flange of the ring, and won't tighten properly.

Mark Bulgier
Seattle, WA USA