I've been musing on the regrinding and had a few Q's about the
process/results.
How much materiel has to come off before the race is thru it's hardness
depth? Enough to make a problem if ridden?
Are the cones/races/cups hardened all the way thru?
Would that make the fork fixed cone easy to split/crack if too tite on fork
crown/base position.
If too much materiel is removed does that increase the radius/radii of the
paired combination and change the position enuf to maybe cause some very
close tolerance parts to have contact/friction?
Just wondering as this is a new area of problem solving with some parts now
becoming harder to replace.
Ted Ernst
Palos Verdes Estates
CA USA
<classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 6:46 PM Subject: Re: [CR] pitted races
>
> Malcolm Garland wrote:
>>
>> I've a couple of Camy SR pitted races - Is there any point trying new
>> bearings in them-or would that make the problem even worse?
>>
>> Is there anyone outside the US offering a re-grinding service?
>
> New balls won't make a pitted race any better or worse.
>
> Regrinding is a last resort for when new replacement parts aren't
> available. Replacement cups and cones for NR/SR hubs aren't that hard
> to find.
>
> If the cones are pitted and the cups aren't (a typical scenario), then
> all you need are cones, which are relatively easy to find. (and new
> balls, natch) Save a search in eBay and they'll email you when some
> come up for auction. Remember to use top-grade balls. They don't have
> to be Campy; "Grade 25" is a good thing to look for. Cheap balls are a
> bad way to save money.
>
> Replacement cups are a bit harder to find, but they do come up for sale
> now and then. Sometimes, to save having to rebuild your wheel, it's
> worth it to remove good cups from an organ-donor hub to install in the
> hub that the wheel is built on.
>
> Use the CR archives for descriptions of how to remove and re-install the
> cups. Some mechanical aptitude is needed to remove the cups -- that's
> not a standard amateur-mechanic job, but I think most people can handle
> it if they take the time to look up the instructions, don't rush the
> job, and have enough hammer-skill to hit a punch (and not miss and hit
> the hub!) I hope it's needless to say, use safety glasses when hitting
> a punch (or most anything else for that matter) with a hammer.
>
> Mark Bulgier
> Seattle, WA USA