[CR] Seized cup solved

Example: Production Builders:Peugeot:PY-10

Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 23:48:08 +0200
From: "kim klakow" <Akimbo71@gmx.net>
In-Reply-To: <711053.41627.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <711053.41627.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
To: MARK <mhoffman0@snet.net>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Subject: [CR] Seized cup solved

Hi all and thanks! I got my cup removed!! Woo-hoo! I can now finish the build and will then post pictures of my wonderful off-topic Cratoni Perla Verde twin dt bike. Best, kim

PS: Isn't the left hand cup the adjustable one? When I sit on my bike it sure is. Is this a tomato/tomatoe thing or more in the way that cyclo-cross riders have the front brake right? Perhaps a remnant of the confused way the british mistake left and right in the way they use their roads, .... ;-)

-------- Original-Nachricht --------

> Datum: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 05:50:05 -0700 (PDT)

> Von: MARK <mhoffman0@snet.net>

> An: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

> Betreff: Re: [CR] Seized LH cup: How to?

> I'm a bit confused.  I associate pin spanners with adjustable cups (RH in

> both position and threading) .  Most LH (read fixed cup) have flats, in

> my experience.  Also good to be sure of thread direction on the fixed side.


> Heat from a heat gun can be directed directly on the cup, without

> effecting the paint unless you are careless and don't heat it too long.  The

> heating cooling cycle can help break the bond. 


> I'm a big fan of the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.  Again, paint can be

> affected, so it needs to be applied carefully and conservatively.


> VAR makes the removal wrench with many  sizes for fixed cups.  This is

> similar to the Campy tool in that it grips the flats of the cup. 

> Kingsbridge types use only friction, controled by how tight the tool grabs the sides

> of the cup, and will sometimes slip.


> My 2 cents.


> Mark Hoffman

> New Britain, CT