Re: [CR] all this talk of tandems...and I have some questions

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From: "Tom Harriman" <transition202@hotmail.com>
To: <moschika@gmail.com>, Classic Rendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 05:23:44 +0000
In-Reply-To: <FEDE934E-8B30-4688-99F3-8FBA91D8D2F4@gmail.com>
References: <0C992081-1D1A-4F72-A8D9-47C81503DAAF@gmail.com> <BAY140-W1663D20774E638CD97047FF0FC0@phx.gbl> <D66EC862-60AA-4F54-BC72-04AB8949759F@gmail.com> <BAY140-W27103915255CF29C100979F0FF0@phx.gbl>
Subject: Re: [CR] all this talk of tandems...and I have some questions


Hi Eric. Just two more bits of advise, and then I'll let ride the bike in peace. Before you bid on those ebay wheels, make sour that a Shimano cassette will fit on this hub. Different manufactures have different amounts of space between the gears, and if you don't use a Shimano cassette the indexed shifting will be really bad, if it works at all. Finally, the rear of the frame doesn't always have to make all the changes. If the axel is more than 140, I would call Bullseye and ask if a shorter axel can be installed. The Santa Rosa bike shops are pretty good, so you should be able to do this locally. Apologies to list members on the east cost, but the weather in CA for this weekend is forecasted to be in the mid 60s with little or no wind. A perfect weekend for a tandem ride. Tom (sunscreen in January) HarrimanSan Francisco, Ca.

From: moschika@gmail.com To: transition202@hotmail.com Subject: Re: [CR] all this talk of tandems...and I have some questions Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 00:19:40 -0800

Hey Tom, the updates seemed really hodge-podgey to me. not all bad, but not necessarily what i would've done. i'll keep the shifters, levers, derailleurs, but mis-matched wheels is a bicycle pet peeve of mine. as for wheels, the response i got from folks on the "spread" was quite varied from "no problem" to "i wouldn't advise it". so i take it as, if you find a wheelset, whatever the spacing from 126-135, then i'll be ok. so i did find some 40h Bullseye wheels with 27" Super Champions on ebay $200, that i'm considering getting. i'm waiting to hear back on the hub spacing incase it's too out of the ordinary. I did change out the stoker bar to an upright bar. it clears my legs, and makes it more comfortable for her. i also replaced the bars and keith anderson stem, with a shorter and less angled cinelli stem and nitto randonneur bars that have a shorter drop. thanks for your advice. Eric On Jan 25, 2011, at 9:25 PM, Tom Harriman wrote:Hi Eric. Thanks for sending a picture, it tells me allot. This bike has already been updated a great deal. The brake levers are modern arrow type, as well as the Shimano deralleurs, and the bar end shifters. Since the back hub is an eight speed Hugi cassette than I would guess and all of these parts were added around the late 1990s. It appears that the bar end shifters were installed around this same time, so it should have indexed shifting. I can't see anyone buying new hub and deralleurs and then not buying new shifters.
>From what I have seen of Hugi hubs they are really good, and I would advise you to have it inspected to see if it can be saved. You should be able to install a 11-32 cassette on this hud, and this is also within the range of the rear deralleur. This just got easier. I was also thinking of the front wheel. If the two of you aren't going to go loaded touring with this bike, and your not heavier than average adults, than a standard 36 spoke 3x wheel will work just fine. As these are still pretty common it will save you allot of money from not having to buy an uncommon 40 spoke wheel. I do see 36 hole rims in 27" on ebay from time to time, so this can be done. My last bit of advice is to raise the stoker handlebar. I would guess that if you and your wife were to start doing on longer rides her back would get sour from being bent pretty far forward, and I have found we want to keep our better half happy. I hope these bits of advise help. Tom HarrimanSan Francisco, Ca

From: moschika@gmail.com To: transition202@hotmail.com Subject: Re: [CR] all this talk of tandems...and I have some questions Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2011 01:13:57 -0800

thanks for the reply. good call on the canti fit. the cantis on there now are adjustable, so they are working with 700c, but the don't work that well. i'll have to see how my pauls mount up. i know they aren't as adjustable, so that could be an issue. 27" wheels wouldn't be bad i guess. there are some nice tires and rims out there in that size. also the tandem is 140 spacing. so i'll hold off on a wheelset for now. if i'm lucky i'll find a set of Phils on CL for cheap. :) the wheelset will also determine cassette or freewheel. knowing i can go up to 8sp on the crankset makes it easy to find something with the gear ratio that will work for us. it currently has an 8sp on there now. i think the friction shifting deore derailleurs will work on any ratio, so i won't need to change those. here's a pic of what i'm starting with.<tandem1.jpg> the current set up stretches me out a bit. fortunately i have something i can replace the bar and stem with. i'm going to change them out for a shorter cinelli stem and nitto rando bars - hope the barends fit. i found some stoker bars today that i think might work too. they're bars that come on the commuter/townie Treks. basically alloy risers that look similar to the catalogue scan. we'll see how it goes. i think this will be a fun project. Thanks for the tips.Eric On Jan 24, 2011, at 9:26 PM, Tom Harriman wrote:Hi Eric. I few years back I belonged to a tandem club that often took blind people out for rides, so I did get some experience with this. I'll try to help out as best I can. I have found that SR post work well and last a long time, however if your having doubts about a thirty four year old part, than by all mean replace it. I do agree with you that modern brakes are a big improvement, and that you should install then. The one thing I would caution you about is that the cantilever monts are wielded to the frame and fork so that the brakes match up with a 27" rim. Going to the smaller 700c rim could cause you problems. If you have a 700c wheel set then put these in the frame and fork and see how the rim and brakes line up. I have know several people for whom this small distance was a big problem, so give this some thought before buying new parts. On old bikes you can match any kind of brake with any kind of brake lever. This will be simple. Eight speed chains will work with everything. As I recall stoker bars were the standard 31.0. I would take the old one to the shop with you, and have the employee match the two. This should be easy to resolve. I don't think you will have to replace the crank set, as long as the gear ratios work in your area, it should be fine. I also wanted to mention that I have a set of tandem wheels for sale. I was at a swap meet a while back and bought a pair of Mavic 40 hole rims and a pair of Shimano 40 hole hubs. The seller was planning on building these up, but never got to it. The rear hub is a seven speed freehub, and has a 145 spacing. You will need to measure the rear triangle to see if this will work. Let me know. This bike sounds like a fun project, let us know how it turns out. Tom HarrimanSan Francisco, Ca
> From: moschika@gmail.com
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 14:25:06 -0800
> Subject: [CR] all this talk of tandems...and I have some questions
>
> this list has "birthed" another bike in the shed. all this talk of
> tandems on the list recently has led me to purchase a 1977 paramount
> tandem. the only thing "original" as far as i can tell is the campy
> triple tandem crankset. it looks to have been repainted by Keith
> Anderson, with a KA stem painted to match - unfortunately i think the
> stem might be a bit long for me. the paint is chipped in several
> places but looks good from 10' away, and one of the cable guides needs
> replacing. if it really works out, then a repair/repaint may be in
> order.
>
> wifey felt comfortable in the stoker seat, the SR MTE-100 post helps
> with that. btw, how sturdy are those? i think i'ld rather get a
> setback post.
> also the original stoker bar looks to be similar to a standard mtb
> riser bar. is that correct? what's on there now are some bullhorn bars
> that hit my legs, they need to go.
>
> wheels - originally it came with campy HF 36h hubs on 27"rims. were
> these your standard campy HF hubs? i don't plan on going back to 27"
> wheels, so i'll probably lace something up to modern 700c rims. the
> wheels now are a mismatched pair of DT swiss Hugi rear cassette hub
> with threads for a drum and a Sachs new success front hub and
> mismatched 700c rims. i'ld like to get a matching set, one of my
> neuroses about bike stuff.
>
> brakes - found in the archives about the mafac cantilevers and there
> being 3 sizes. how does one know which size is which? would you need
> to use mafac levers too? i'm also considering with going with modern
> Paul neo-retros. brakes are kind of the one thing i don't want to
> short-change myself on and i've used these before with success
> stopping and they still look the part. it currently has some cheap
> shimano canti's that barely worked on singles. i don't plan any long
> descents but would like my brakes to work when i need them.
>
> drivetrain - has shimano deore with the stags head front and rear DR.
> i remember these worked well on mtbs back in the day, guessing they
> still work well. they have it shifting an 8sp cassette with bar-ends.
> if i modernized the drivetrain (gasp!), i'm guessing the campy triple
> would still work with 8/9sp chains. will it? this really will depend
> on what kind of wheelset I can manage, but i really don't want to
> replace the crankset either.
>
> we've only ridden it around the neighborhood, but once i get a set of
> stoker bars and put on a shorter stem, we'll take it farther. wouldn't
> mind some feedback on what to look for to "upgrade" it over time.
> tandeming is a new thing for us. besides the beach cruiser tandems at
> the beach and borrowing a friends Burley - which didn't feel as comfy
> as this one, we haven't spent much time on them. btw, i paid $500
> which i think was a reasonable price for the bike. we'll probably ride
> it as it is for a while before i really put more into it, but I kind
> of want a plan for changes.
>
> Eric Acuna
> tandeming away with long posts in Santa Rosa, CA, USA