i asked the list keeper/manager before i posted to the list , it's o.k. by him! no i am not refering to the "friction-screw-wingy-nut-thingy". looking at the right lever , position the lever facing straight down , assemble the washers and tightening screw , then move the lever to the stop.......all the way front. this seems to set the spring inside so that it's forcing the lever towards the rear...i/e the lower gear. makes sense if you are trying to counter the pull of the rear derailler spring pulling towards the high gear. mike rawlings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Dalton" <tom_s_dalton@yahoo.com> To: "Mike Rawlings" <serious@dplus.net> Cc: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [CR]lurker question
> I dunno Mike, but retrofrictions may be just a bit
> high-tech for this list! But, Campy did prototype an
> NR/SR version, so we're in under the wire.
>
> I assume that by "preload" you are refering to the
> tightness of the friction-screw-wingnut-thingy (tm).
> Set that as you would on any friction lever, so it is
> tight enough not to slip and loose enough to move
> smoothly. (I usually just crank it down, since there
> are some cupped spring washers in there that provide
> forgiveness in the setting.) On upshifts (to smaller
> cogs) all of the internals on this model rotate around
> an axle formed by the boss and a steel insert that
> engages the boss. There are bronze washers on either
> side of the lever to let things run smoothly.
>
> The retrofriction-ing takes place on downshifts when
> the center of the lever's internals stays fixed
> relative to the boss/insert/washers while the lever
> moves freely thanks to a clutch mechanism. The clutch
> is actually three tiny springs that force three tiny
> ball bearings into the alloy of the lever causing the
> whole mechanism to turn during upshifts, whereas the
> springs compress and the bearings roll allowing the
> clutch to slip during downshifts. It's the steel-
> bearings-forced-into-soft-alloy feature that causes
> these levers to wear out and begin to slip. At that
> point the slippage is in the clutch and no amount of
> wingnut tightening will help.
>
> If you are having any difficulty with these levers,
> first make sure that they're not shot (slipping at the
> clutch), then give them a good lubing with some
> viscous oil. Also, make sure that the spring washers
> (two on each side) are set with the concave faces
> together. Some of the early instruction sheets had
> this wrong.
>
> Tom Dalton
>
> --- Mike Rawlings <serious@dplus.net> wrote:
> > i'm mike rawlings who has read(for 7 months or so)
> > but not posted to this list because my lightweights
> > are not "classic". i do however ride lugged steel
> > (basso , paramount , williams) and down tube
> > shifters. my question is.......the campy
> > retro-friction shifters , are the springs in the
> > levers to be preloaded? i did preload them with
> > about 3/4 of a turn......correct.........incorrect?
> > thankyou. mike rawlings
> >
> >
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