Re: [CR]Drilling fork crown/variables

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From: <NortonMarg@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2003 20:41:25 EST
Subject: Re: [CR]Drilling fork crown/variables
To: stevens@veloworks.com, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org


In a message dated 1/13/03 10:25:02 AM Pacific Standard Time, stevens@veloworks.com writes:


> You'll also have a fork with longer legs and more offset, which will
> result in raising the front of the bike, slackening the headtube angle,
> and resulting in a variance in trail which can have a negative impact
> on the handling of the bike.
> Well, that depends. If you put on a "French" style fork with 2.5" of rake that's set up for a long reach Mafac brake, yes, it will probably suck. If you find a short rake fork that needs a short reach brake, you should be ok. It would be a good idea to measure your head angle as it is, so you know what you are starting with. I generally use a machinists angle finder to measure between the head and top tubes (while you're at it, measure the seat angle), but I also occasionally use one of those carpenter things that's magnetic, and put it on the headtube to see what that angle is in relation to gravity (absolute down). That tool isn't necessarily as accurate as the machinist tool, and you have to do it on a board that is: #1 Straight (sight down it) and #2 Adjusted for level (absolute horizontal). If you always use the same tool, you at least have a relative measurement. It's handy for frames without level top tubes. Steven makes a very good point, it just depends on the variables. FWIW, I found a VERY short rake road fork at a swap for $10.
Stevan Thomas
Alameda, CA