Re: [CR]seat height

(Example: History)

From: <bill@billbostoncycles.com>
To: <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>, <marcus.e.helman@gm.com>
References: <OF6567203D.19F93C4B-ON85256E1C.004C4996@mail.gm.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]seat height
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2004 10:49:28 -0500


Marcus,

What seat height is all about is trying to establish a hip position relative to the cranks that will allow you to use the best range of motion without overextending your knee. A lot of people try to get their leg straight at the bottom of the stroke, and that is not what you should be doing.

An easy test is to stand on a step or curb, with one foot hanging over the edge. Relax your leg and observe the natural bend at the knee. This is the straightest that your knee should ever be when you are riding. Any higher, and you are introducing more stress on the knee.

Nope this helps

Bill Boston http://www.billbostoncycles.com

Still cold (single digits) in Wilmington, DE


----- Original Message -----
From: marcus.e.helman@gm.com
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 8:59 AM
Subject: [CR]seat height



> I followed Chuck Schmidt's link:
>
> From:
> Answers to Rec.Bicycles' Frequently Asked Questions and Interesting
> Information
> http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ
>
> looked over a few things, and came across this:
>
> Subject: 8h.1 Seat adjustments
> From: Roger Marquis <marquis@roble.com>
>
> [More up to date copies of Roger's articles can be found at
> http://www.roble.net/marquis/]
>
> The following method of setting saddle height is not the only method
> around for setting your saddle height but it is the most popular
> among experienced coaches and riders in the US and Europe.
>
> 1) First adjust the saddle angle. It should be level or very close
> to level, with no more than 2mm slope up or down at the nose.
>
> 2) Put on the shoes you normally ride in. Don't forget to lightly
> grease the seat post and binder bolt. Have a binder bolt wrench
> ready (usually a 5mm Allen).
>
> 3) Mount the bike and sit comfortably, leaning against a wall.
> Apply a brake with one hand (or mount the bike on a turbo trainer).
>
> 4) Placing your HEELS on the pedals pedal backwards at 30+ rpm
> without rocking your pelvis (very important).
>
> 5) Adjust seat height so the gap between pedal and heel at bottom
> dead center is:
>
> 5A) ZERO TO ONE HALF CM. for recreational riders (-50 mi/wk.),
>
> 5B) ONE HALF TO ONE CM. for experienced riders (50+ mi./wk.),
>
> 5C) ONE TO ONE AND ONE HALF CM. for endurance cyclists (250+
> mi./wk.).
>
> NOTE: Modify these recommendations if your soles are considerably
> thicker at the cleat than at the heel. It can be difficult
> to make an accurate measurement without a mirror or friend
> to do a visual check of your heel and pedal at BDC. (This is
> especially true for Time and Look style cleats).
>
> 6) Ride. It may take a couple of rides to get used to the feel and
> possibly stretch the hamstrings and Achilles slightly.
>
> Roger Marquis (marquis@roble.com)
>
>
> This sounds too high to me. What do you think?
>
> Marcus Helman
> Perhaps a bit too much caffeine
> Huntington Woods, MI