Re: [CR]Cip I mean really stuck

(Example: Framebuilding)

From: "Steven Willis" <smwillis@verizon.net>
To: "Dennis Young" <mail@woodworkingboy.com>, <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <BC733E77.3D8C%mail@woodworkingboy.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Cip I mean really stuck
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:08:09 -0800


You have now seen what we call a heat wrench. Steven Willis 1778 East Second Street Scotch Plains NJ 07076 908-322-9022 http://www.thebikestand.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Young
To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 4:27 PM
Subject: [CR]Cip I mean really stuck



> I had a case where one cup was rusted frozen on the shell. Sheldon's
> (usually successful) method wouldn't budge it. After squirting a liberal
> amount of penetrating oil into the area surounding the cup, I stuck the
> nozzle of a small portable torch into the shell and hit the cup with a good
> ten second blast of heat. The penetrant started popping as it evaporated,
> and I had a little fire going on inside when I pulled out the torch. Then I
> did likewise on the outside face of the cup, carefully and not long enough
> to do any damage to the paint on the shell. Whether the heat allowed the
> oil to further penetrate the threads, or the cup tweaked, or what I'm not
> sure, but after it cooled down, the cup screwed out with relatively little
> effort. I realize there is potential for damage, but I just had to get that
> sucker off of there.
>
> Dennis Young
> Small canister torches are useful in Hotaka, Japan
>
>
> > I can vouch for the nut and bolt method on Sheldon's page.
> > Works great, might scare you when that cup comes loose with a crack!
> > I think I had to do that on my "Raleigh spec" bottom brackets.