I keep a whole bunch of foam rubber pipe insulation in
my shop for covering the tubes of nice bikes--kind of
like car mechanics' bras.
David Feldman
Vancouver, WA
> I always just wrap 3M blue painter's masking tape
> around and slightly above
> the headtube and then face lightly after paint.
> It's faced "for real"
> before it goes to paint. Never had a problem.
>
> My biggest fear when working on any "new" bike is
> dropping an allen on it.
> How many times have you dropped an allen over a bike
> with a new paint job
> and felt that jab of panic as it skitters across the
> floor while you search
> the paint for nicks?
>
> Cheers!
> Don Ferris
> Anvil Bikeworks, Inc.
> Littleton, Colorado
> Ph: 303.471.7533 / 303.919.9073
> Fax: 413.556.6825
> http://www.anvilbikes.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org
> [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On
> Behalf Of goodrichbikes
> Sent: Friday, September 10, 2004 9:17 AM
> To: Todd Kuzma; LouDeeter@aol.com;
> classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: Re: [CR]Damage at Bike Shops
>
> Todd Kuzma posted-
> If the paint job ain't great, you can get that same
> chip when you face the
> > head tube. In this case, I'd be more inclined to
> blame the painter for
> that
> > chip than the shop. Of course, the shop should
> have faced the head tube
> for
> > proper fit of the headset.
>
> I always remove the paint with a razor. First run
> the blade along the
> outside edge thereby creating a paint donut on the
> head tube face that's
> separate from the rest of the paint job. Then use
> the razor to remove the
> paint donut. Then it's obvious if the head tube has
> been faced. If it has,
> then no need to do it again.
>
> Curt Goodrich
> Minneapolis, MN
>
>
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