<<<Whats best way to modify a backwards toeing arm/pad on an otherwise pristine perfect Nuovo Record caliper? Any worries about breaking things as was discussed w Universals couple weeks ago. And how can this be done without gouging/defacing brake arm? Tom Rawson Oakland, CA>>>
I've retoed Campy calipers before without trouble. Its important
though to under bend rather than overbend when your cranking on it.
First I'd check to make sure the brake hole in the fork or seat stay
brace was straight in case I'd like to move the caliper to another bike
in the future. If everything is straight and the caliper needs to be
toed in, I'd use the widest jawed adjustable wrench I could get to fit
so as to get as much contact patch against the caliper as possible.
Move the brake blocks as necessary, but I kinda feel that having them
bolted tight as far up as possible below the wrench keeps the caliper
arm safer from cracking. I'd start with evenly worn or new pads so the
toe in would be correct. As the pads wear, I'd pull off the brake block
and pull the pads out with a set of channel locks. Anyone who's
replaced Campy pads with Mathauser knows how easy this is to do. All
you have to do is switch pads from left to right to get the toe in back
and make sure the opening on the brake block is facing backward when
reinstalling. Of course I have broken one caliper once, a GB courreur
plus that had been filed near the arm to compensate for a too long
reach. Never noticed the filed marks til too late!
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Dan Artley
Parkton, Maryland