I respectfully dissent. Chains and tools for our treasured two wheel steeds are indeed TL and OT correct. What I haven't heard is any comments about using the correct tool or adapting a tool to do the job properly. We are using old technology and parts, while trying to use new tools made for modern out of timeline bikes. Like using disc brake technology tools on old line mechanical brakes. When you use a chainbraking/ rivet extractor tool, please see how the interface is between tool push pin and chain rivet. Most old chains had a concave rivet center and with a pointed tool pin head, it centered and pushed the pin thru just slickern' snot on a marble table top. With the new UG, STI, ERGO, Etc, the backplate and rivet surface have to be looked at and factored in as you apply pressure to the rivets on new chains. If your pin starts to veer off and angle, STOP! It's the sideways pressure when you twist the turnscrew that cracks the hardened brittle pin. Try to gently screw the pin and watch how the pin engages the rivet. If it starts to angle, release and move chain a little so it can push rivet straight through. You might even consider grinding the tip so that the round grinding wheel will leave a little concave on the pin and then as you sqeeze, it may center itself easier. I would suggest several interchangeable pins contoured for your various chain rivets if you have them. The new chains need the UG type tool so the backplate doesn't tighten up on the roller/pivot and create a tite link. I would like to say that I cannot remember ever having a chain come apart that I worked on. Secret: Regadless of chain and vintage, I ALWAYS had a small ball peen hammer and a plate/ anvil backup and gave the rivet several taps to make sure it spread to remain in place. If a little tite, I twisted the chain manually to free plate and roller movement, and lo and behold!, rivet secure from twisting movment of shifting and no "TITE" link. Remember that finesse, common sense, and feeling are the weapons of a good mechanic. Don"t go off and ram around on your bike. Let the power flow controlled thru your hands into the insturmenti and allow instinct to guide you. If you don't have the touch, that's OK. Take it to Dale or some other quality shop and let them play. Remember the signs in the antique shops, if you break it, you bought it. When you work on your machines they are the patients, and you are Il Doctore. Don't forget it. OR ELSE! Maybe at every bike swap/show, one of the cognescenti could give a short, concise seminar on chain rivets, tools and how to. Better than looking with a magnifying glass for file marks and a brass drop on bikes that were meant to ride and not win beauty contests. Ted Ernst Palos Verdes Estates, Ca
> I'm a working bike mechanic; the only chain tools that
> I will use anymore are (pardon my language, here)
> Shimano. Rivoli? Throwaways. Park? Okay for
> occasional use. I have a twelve year old 8-speed era
> Shimano HG tool that's on it's second pin and an eight
> or nine year old nine-speed tool that's on it's
> original pin. I use the nine speed HG tool almost all
> of the time on everything from cheap wide 5/6/7 speed
> chains to Campag 10 speed chains. If you don't want
> to throw any more chain tools away, buy a Shimano.
> David Feldman
> Vancouver, WA
>
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