RE: [CR]RE: Advice on enameling.

(Example: History:Norris Lockley)

From: "David Toppin" <dave@pelletizer.com>
To: <s.maas@nonlintec.com>
Subject: RE: [CR]RE: Advice on enameling.
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 21:39:03 -0400
Organization: The Pelletizer Group, Inc.
In-Reply-To: <44FCBBEF.6050104@mail.nonlintec.com>
Thread-Index: AcbQfQYw96VFpSO/QnCBjTPwar9wWAADj52w
cc: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

Well I wasn't around for the last powder coat thread! I understand success is in the journey not the destination as well as the next guy, I guess I just choose the journey. Ironicaly, though grinding and polishing in preparation for plating is one of the most horrifyingly messy processes, I don't really mind it. I learned last year to do my own nickel, mostly because the plater I was using keep taking much longer than he told me it would, and grinding areas off parts I didn't want ground. Much of that was my fault, he had no idea how stuff went together, and I didn't take the time to tell him. I have the feeling it would have gone over his head or he would have forgotten by the time he got around to doing it.

It's not really worth my time to do at any price, but I do get satisfaction in doing it.

I don't like painting, prep, or cleanup so powder works awesome for me. Plus you can't beat the durability of the stuff.

David Toppin dave@pelletizer.com http://www.pelletizer.com <------ see our complete, searchable inventory.

The Pelletizer Group, Inc. 4 LaChance Street Gardner, MA 01440-2476

(978) 669-0060 (978) 669-0061 fax

-----Original Message----- From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of Steve Maas Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 7:51 PM To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org Subject: Re: [CR]RE: Advice on enameling.

Because we often don't want a powder-coat finish. For me, at least, it's not a cost issue. Actually, automotive canned spray paint can look pretty nice if you do it right. As for the time issue, I value my time as much as anyone here, but I still paint bikes occasionally. I do it for the project, not so much for the result. Sometimes the journey is more important than arrival.

Steve Maas (sensing the beginning of yet another powder-coating thread in) Long Beach, California

David Toppin wrote:
> I understand why you guys want to do stuff yourself, but if you're
> going to use spray cans, which will never give you a particularly good
> job in the grand scheme of things, why not just powder coat. It is
> very cheap, I bet you can get a frame & fork sand blasted and powder
> coated for around 50 bucks. It just doesn't seem worth it to me to go
> through the prep hassle to save that kind of money. Maybe I value my time too much!
>
>
> David Toppin
> dave@pelletizer.com
> http://www.pelletizer.com <------ see our complete, searchable inventory.
>
> The Pelletizer Group, Inc.
> 4 LaChance Street
> Gardner, MA 01440-2476
>
> (978) 669-0060
> (978) 669-0061 fax
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org
> [mailto:classicrendezvous-bounces@bikelist.org] On Behalf Of scott
> mattern
> Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 2:50 PM
> To: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org
> Subject: [CR]RE: Advice on enameling.
>
>
>
>>I have recently inherited a nice Holdsworth cycle (ID pending). I was
>>wondering if anyone had any experience in doing their own paintjobs?
>>I live in Central London, so pro frame sprayers are few and far
>>between, most seem to be up north, which makes it hard to choose
>>colours, and postage is pricey.
>>I have heard that when doing DIY frame re-paints, spraycans are
>>unfavourable, and buying a compressor/airbrush is out of my budget.
>>Has anyone tried using a tinned enamel (like humbrol model enamel)?
>>Would it be possible to acheive a good finish by applying lightly with
>>a brush and rubbing back? Obviously It would take many coats, but
>>might be worth it if it results in a good looking, durable finish.
>
>
>>If anyone could recommend types of paint and lacquer, give tips, or
>>suggest other ways of repainting, I would be very grateful.
>>Thanks again
>>Lester Lyons, London UK
>
>
> I have had very satisfactory results using spray cans on many projects
> in the past, it just takes good preparation, patience and the correct
> product...just like any good painter would tell you. If you Google
> "Spray Painting" you can find lot's of links with expert advice on the
> how and why and some really good tips.
> Here in the US I have had good luck using Krylon found in hardware
> stores or Dupli-Color which is automotive touch-up paint with a
> fantastic color assortment. Careful surface prep includes how you plan
> to treat the original paint; you can strip it off completely or sand
> it to give your primer something to grip on. Either way your primer
> coat should be blemish free and have as close to a perfect finish as
> you can get, your color coat will magnify any imperfections and ruin all your effort.
> When painting any object I find that if you work the difficult areas
> first and get them right, you can mask them off and paint the large
> areas next. On a bicycle frame these will be the seatstay/seatlug
> junction and the bottom bracket, once you have these primered to your
> satisfaction you can mask them off and continue on to the frame tubes and stays.
> When using any paint follow the manufactures directions, lot's of VERY
> light coats holding the can a consistent distance from the surface.
> You can experiment on a piece of plastic pipe to get the idea, holding
> the spray can closer gives a "wet" or smoother finish but a greater
> possibility of runs, holding further away makes runs or sags less
> likely but results in a "orange-peel" or rough surface. In any case
> patience is your greatest asset, with both primer and color coats
> allow to dry for six to twenty-four hours and wet sand using several
> grades of paper. Start with 400, step up to 600, then 800 and go
> through every grade until you finish with at least 1500 or 2000 grit.
> Remember, you have to remove every scratch from the previous paper before moving on to the next, there are no shortcuts in this process!
> Sand until you have a uniform surface finish, then go on to the next grade.
> Remember that any imperfection will only be magnified by the following
> coat, so it's step by step and take your time!
> Remember to paint in a well ventilated area, and use a cartridge style
> respirator that can be found in any good paint or hardware store.
> Once you have studied, practiced, stripped, sanded, primered, sanded
> again, more primer, sand, cuss, stripped the whole thing and started
> over for the fourth time the cost of a professional paint job will seem very reasonable.
> However with a great deal of time and patience you can have a very
> respectable finish, and the great satisfaction of being able to say
> you did it yourself.
> Not everyone can say that.
>
> Scott Mattern
> Hacienda heights, California
> Where I am gone outside to the pool and a cold adult beverage (hey,
> it's after 1 PM somewhere!!)
>
>
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