Re: [CR]Polishing aluminum parts

(Example: Framebuilders)

Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2006 16:23:49 -0800
From: "Kurt Sperry" <haxixe@gmail.com>
To: "Watts, Gary J (Vancouver, WA USA)" <gary.watts@hp.com>
Subject: Re: [CR]Polishing aluminum parts
In-Reply-To: <8E538912BF637740BA7EFEC3FA2BE341E2F9A0@G3W0069.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <8E538912BF637740BA7EFEC3FA2BE341E2F9A0@G3W0069.americas.hpqcorp.net>
cc: classicrendezvous <classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>

Going through all those sanding steps is wholly unnecessary for getting a spectacular mirror polish on most commonly used Al alloys. After 400, go straight to Bobbing compound, a medium abrasive in a wax matrix, on a 8" or so cotton buffing wheel ~1,500 to 2,500 rpm, then use Fabuluster (spelling might be slightly off) on another cotton buffing wheel. Done. It should only take minutes on the wheel. The resulting finish will be every bit as brilliant as going through the whole gamut of abrasive papers and take exponentially less time and effort. Once degreased, at this point if desired the parts can be reanodised clear and the polished areas will look exactly as they did new- perhaps better- if they began as anodised bits like Cinelli stems or Campagnolo crankarms or calipers with that lusturous silver satin finish.

Kurt Sperry Bellingham WA USA

On 12/18/06, Watts, Gary J (Vancouver, WA USA) <gary.watts@hp.com> wrote:
>
> I got a fair number of questions about the polishing method I used on
> the Colnago Super Campy parts. I thought I'd post that information here
> for anyone that is interested.
>
> Ray Dobbins is to blame for "baiting" me with the beautiful examples of
> polished parts on his webpage such as his Molteni replica:
>
> http://www.raydobbins.com/molteni_replica/molteni_replica.htm
>
> He also has a useful page on polishing of his own, using a machine
> buffer here:
>
> http://www.raydobbins.com/polishing/
>
> The list there is good for knowing what parts will need to have the
> anodizing stripped first.
>
> I used the Easy-Off method (contains lye), leaving it on for 5-10
> minutes. This is not needed on non-anodized parts.
>
> Many of the parts had dents, scratches and other surface abnormalities.
> Polishing will make the part "shiny" byt not optically flat. This is
> very visible on flat surfaces.
>
> 1) Strip off the anodizing
> 2) File or sand out all imperfections. The exact method will depend on
> where and how deep the issues are.
> 3) Start working through the various grits. I used 220 (Silicon Carbide
> paper like 3M wet-N-Dry, the black stuff)for the big offenders after
> filing, followed by 400, 600, 800, and 1200. After this, I started the
> Micromesh papers going up to 3600.
> 4) Polish with Simichrome polish. This is great stuff and is best hand
> applied.
> 5) I applied a coat of liquid carnuba wax (Meguiars or Mothers) to
> provide some simple protection.
>
> Patience is the key and not skipping grits. You'll get a mirror if you
> follow the steps.

>

> Gary Watts

> Vancouver, WA

> USA