To complete the job, a small dab of bright paint on the newly soldered cable end will show that the owner of the bike is a person of taste and refinement, even though possibly an American ;--)
Dennis Young
Hotaka, Japan
>
> An ordinary, 25-watt iron really should be OK. This is what I use.
> Steel
> is a relatively poor thermal conductor, so you should be able to do a
> quick job on the cable end without melting anything inside the cable
> sheath. If you're really worried about this, just clamp something
> large
> and metal (e.g., a c clamp) to the cable between the point where
> you are
> soldering and the sheath. I do the soldering after attaching the cable
> to the caliper, so the caliper acts as a heat sink.
>
> If your flux isn't right, though, you might keep the iron on too long
> while trying to get the solder to flow properly, and then you might
> melt
> something.
>
> Be sure to wrap a rag around the frame below the point where you are
> soldering, so solder and flux drips don't land on the paint!
>
> Steve Maas
> Long Beach, California
>
>
>
> Ken Freeeman wrote:
>
>
>> To the Cable Solderers in the group:
>>
>> I have two questions:
>>
>> 1. what power/type/temperature soldering iron has worked well,
>> and 2.
>> have there been any problems with heat conducting up the cable to
>> distort
>> the poly liners in the outer cable? Or is the soldering done with
>> the inner
>> cable sitting out in the open?