Re: [CR]Now: tuning Campy brakes

> I'll echo Dale's tips, especially to make sure the levers
> have some travel before the pads contact the rims. Not only
> does this provide greater mechanical advantage, but most
> perople can apply more force with a "more closed" fist than
> with the fingers spread and reaching for the levers. This is
> counter intuitive: you'd think the tighter the pads are to
> the rim, the more braking power available, but there needs to
> be some movement in the mechanism for optimal force.
>
> And if that doesn't work (and assuming cables and calipers
> are running freely without drag), add some oversize
> aftermarket brake pads. Grippy pads will pep up any brake
> set, and you can switch back to the real Campy pads for
> display or show, if needed.
>
> I frequently offend local list members by sticking sticky
> red Kool Stop pads on vintage bikes, because at 240 lbs I
> need lotsa whoa power. These have worked well for me:
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#supra2
>
> Made a tremendous difference on a set of Universal 68
> brakes. Went from braking action equivalent to reversing
> props on the Queen Mary to being able to stop okay. Still
> not equal to modern dual pivots, but okay. You may need to
> buy one of the thinline variants if your fork blade
> clearances are tight. If that doesn't work, and you need
> still more stopping power, switch to centerpulls.
>
> Tom Adams, Shrewsbury NJ
>
> oroboyz@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Kyle:
> You wrote: << But if your brakes are REALLY hard to work --
> so bad
> that you fear for
> your safety -- one thing that you should look at is the
> tension
> adjustment. You
> can adjust the tension on those brakes pretty easily, and
> make sure you
> have
> good lubrication on the pivots. >>
>
> Thanks for your posting, it prompts some thought. I don't
> quite
> understand, how is the tension adjusted? Do you mean by
> bending the
> springs for less force exerted by them? I know that the
> Campag springs
> are strong suckers...
>
> As a side note, I approached a customer of mine (whose
> business is
> spring manufacturing for textile machines) some years ago,
> with the
> idea of making springs of less strength for Campag brakes.
> Unforunately
> he didn't have the ability to do springs like that.
>
> But I am interested in your approach.
>
> Failing less burly springs, for easiest operation of Campag
> brakes, I
> have always "addressed the basics" by absolutely optimizing
> the cables
> & housings, making them the shortest length possible while
> still making
> graceful loops, properly "dressing" the housing exit ends,
> properly
> lubing internally and using lined housing, etc., etc. The
> Koolstop-made
> black replica pads seem to work very well (and look right!)
> Also a good
> trick is not setting them up so as to have short brake lever
> action; if
> the brake lever can closer approach the bar before
> activation, better
> mechanical advantage is available...
>
> Dale Brown
> cycles de ORO, Inc.
> 1410 Mill Street
> Greensboro, NC 27408 USA
> 336-274-5959
> http://www.cyclesdeoro.com
> http://www.classicrendezvous.com
> Giant, Specialized, Orbea, Bianchi, Felt, Litespeed,
> Landshark,
> Colnago, Townie and other exotica.
> National Bicycle Dealers Association Board member
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kyle-chrisbrooks
> To: bjwebel@mac.com; CR List
> Sent: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 07:39:04 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: RE: [CR]Campy standard/long reach (57mm) calipers?
>
> I too wish Campy would come out with a modern longer reach
> brake.
>
> Regarding the Nuovo Record brakes: Many people complain about
> the
> effort on
> them. I use both earlier and later versions of the brakes,
> but haven't
> noticed
> much difference between them. But while I do notice the
> effort to be
> tougher
> than modern brakes -- and even contemporary offerings from
> SunTour or
> Shimano --
> I've never had any near-death experiences. My favorite pads
> for these
> are from
> Aztec and are somewhat similar to KoolStops, but I don't
> think the ones
> I like
> are available anymore. I occasionally see them on Ebay, and
> sometimes
> with the
> name Madison on them -- but they work well, and you can
> adjust the
> toe-in very
> easily. But if your brakes are REALLY hard to work -- so bad
> that you
> fear for
> your safety -- one thing that you should look at is the
> tension
> adjustment. You
> can adjust the tension on those brakes pretty easily, and
> make sure you
> have
> good lubrication on the pivots.
>
> Kyle Brooks
> Akron, Ohio
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2006 at 10:25 PM, bjwebel@mac.com wrote:
>
> > I have a pair of Campy N. Record calipers from the early
> 70s, and am
> > not all that thrilled with the braking on them,
> particularly the hand
>
> > effort required, even with new pads.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions on others to try? Were
> later campy
> > models better in this regard?
> >
> > I'd really rather not go to the modern shimano or tektro
> calipers,
> > and campy doesn't even make 47-57mm reach these days as far
> as I can
> > tell, but I had a pretty close call on a ride a few days
> ago and was
> > thinking ugly brakes might not be the worst thing compared
> to being
> > plastered on the back of a van.
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > Baird
> >
> > __________________________
> > Baird Webel
> > Washington DC
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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