Re: [CR] Stuck stuff, Kroil, etc.

(Example: Bike Shops)

Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 22:58:04 -0700
From: "verktyg" <verktyg@aol.com>
To: Mark Petry <mark@petry.org>, <Classicrendezvous@bikelist.org>
References: <001401ca373d$a3d098d0$eb71ca70$@org>
In-Reply-To: <001401ca373d$a3d098d0$eb71ca70$@org>
Subject: Re: [CR] Stuck stuff, Kroil, etc.


Mark, et al,

The biggest concern I have about removing a stuck water bottle cage bolt is breaking the brazed attachment out of the frame. There's generally not a whole lot of brazing material holding those "top hats" into the frame.

That said, I have a 5" pair of Vice-Grip pliers that have come in handy when brute force was needed. The jaws are narrow enough to fit under the H2O cage.

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100317

Chas. Colerich Oakland, CA USA

Mark Petry wrote:
> So you have to go beyond the magic of chemistry.
>
> Spray the penetrant of your choice and let it sit overnite. Repeat.
>
> On the water bottle bolts, what I would do is give them the treatment -
> whack 'em good, on top. Use a medium size hammer and a wood block. Impart
> a good mechanical shock into the thing (don't dent the tube). Consider the
> use of heat - but maybe not possible on a painted frame.
>
> Then find a way to make the wrench absolutely secure on the bolt - again,
> use a wood block and a clamp or something so you have a good solid grip on
> the bolt.
>
> Maybe at this point using a small hammer on the wrench to start it turning.
>
> The point is - chemistry only gets you so far. After applying solvent, a
> little mechanical shock will break loose almost anything that's rusted.
>
> Mark Petry
>
> Bainbridge Island, WA