On Thu, May 28, 2009 at 2:34 PM, nicbordeaux <nicbordeaux@yahoo.fr> wrote:
> Don't doubt for an instant that soaking a leather saddle thoroughly will make it supple, and the expansion, as with wood, will "seal" the cracks quite a bit. But a little worried about what happens further down the road. An ex o' mine who is a leather expert in the shoe industry said I was off my rocker if I soaked leather, because when it starts to really dry out it will be about as tough as a piece of cardboard. She explicitly said that the leather would be irreversably damaged, no ifs or buts.
>
This reasonable concern may arise from the possibility that water soaking removed some of the oil content of the leather. This may need to be restored after soaking and fully drying.
Some leather care advise on this worth reading is Peter Limmer's instructions for caring for the hiking and mountaineering boots he makes.
Click on "boots." Boot leather is used differently from saddle leather, of course. Brooks/Ideals wear exclusively in tension while hiking boots are in tension, compression, repetitive wrinkling/bending, so cracks that open in Brooks happen for different reasons perhaps that cracks in boots. But Limmer's explanations helped me see the relationship between moisture and oil in leather.
Mitch Harris Little Rock Canyon, Utah, USA _______________________________________ Basic Care:
*Ensuring maximum use: It has been said that more fine boots have been ruined through neglect than through use. Having made the investment of purchasing top quality hiking or backpacking boots, customers can ensure maximum life and superior performance from their boots by exercising proper care. Correct boot maintenance includes treating boots with a substance that conditions and waterproofs the leather.
* Softening leather: Limmer recommends the use of animal based preparations of a paste or grease nature to soften the leather on Standard, Midweight or Lightweight Limmer Boots only. (In some cases, natural liquid oils can saturate leather causing it to soften too much.) The stoutness of these Limmer boots makes softening leather, particularly during the break-in period, desirable. Only an extremely over zealous applicator could oversoften these Limmer products.
* Caring for Ultralights: For the 2.4 mm lighter weight leather of a Limmer Ultralight, there is a danger leather could stretch and lose its supportive structure. For this product, Limmer recommends the use of applications specially designed for Nubuk or suede leather.
* Caring for Walkers: In the case of the Limmer Walker, a soft creme polish combined with the occasional Limmer conditioning mentioned above is recommended.
* Using straight oils: The use of straight oils, such as neats foot or mink oil in liquid form is not recommended because it tends to oversaturate and oversoften leather. Use of these products, over time, will cause leather to deteriorate.
* Using wax or petroleum base products: These products are not recommended either even though they do provide waterproofing. As a living thing, leather has pores and these products can clog pores Clogging cuts down on a boot's ability to breathe. Over time, these products will stiffen the leather and, in this way, shorten its life span. Because they don't clog pores, natural animal oils don't dry out leather.
* Timing your protection efforts: When Limmer boots are new, don't immediately waterproof. Wait until you notice a loss of water repellency. When your boots are dry and clean, apply a modest layer of grease rubbing it in well. Store your boots in an area of moderate temperature and humidity. Stay away from extremes such as a hot dry attic or a damp basement.
* Storing your boots: Limmer recommends applying a layer of boot conditioner whenever boots are placed in storage with another application, perhaps, before you use them again. Limmer's own line of boot conditioner is a time tested combination of animal paste and waterproofing additives. It has repeatedly proven its ability to provide optimum results and contribute to the renowned longevity of Limmer products. Limmer also recommends the use of wooden shoe trees.
Special Care
* Dealing with heat: If your boots become completely saturated with water, for whatever reason, they should not be allowed to dry with any rapidity. When leather dries too quickly, it stiffens and has a tendency to crack. Exposure to excessive heat during the drying process can burn leather and cause severe, irrepairable damage. Too much heat can also reactivate the thermally activated adhesives used to attach sole to boot in which case soles can loosen or fall off.
* Drying your boots: Drying should be done at a moderate rate, away from heat. Once boots are saturated, stuff them with newspapers for the first day of drying. Change paper, frequently, to remove moisture and maintain shape.
* Treating your boots: Once they are dry, apply a moderate coat of Limmer Boot Conditioner which will also waterproof the leather. Include the area of stitching on the welt as well. If boots are new, however, the application of any grease must wait until the factory applied finish on the boots has worn off or the application will be ineffective.
* Treating the interior of your boots: When the wearer's perspiration is profuse, there may be a need to treat the interior of the boot. In such cases, an occasional very light application of Limmer's boot conditioner would prove valuable provided the person does not overapply it.
* Life expectancy: With proper care and conditioning, the life expectancy of a Limmer boot can be 10-15 years and some owners claim their boots have lasted up to 25 years. At least half the reason for such success is proper conditioning. Neglect or abuse of a Limmer product will cause the same incidence of failure as would afflict anything else that has been abused. Neglect and/or abuse are not covered under the boot's warranty.