I spent a very enjoyable three days biking in and around the old Japanese city of Kyoto, not having visited there for over twenty years. The city is fairly large, with riding locations varying from small tracks that border on ancient gardens of exquisite visual delicacy and perspective, to having to dodge through masses of people and automobiles when on routes that take you through downtown tourist hell. In this regard, the 3Rensho track bike with brakes and quick meneuverability was a good choice. Kyoto, once the capital of Japan, is famous for it's ancient tranquil gardens and many elaborately constructed Buddhist temple complexes. A typhoon had passed through the previous night, and everything was clean and fresh. One place in itself that made the whole trip worthwhile, is the hermitage called Shisen-do, established by Jozan Ishikawa (1583-1572), who was a scholar of Chinese clssics and a landscape architect. The design of the garden as it integrates into the surrounding mountainside greenery was visually enthralling, and seemed beyond human capability. Off to one side in a little grotto was a small tatami mat outbuilding, placed there for the purpose of viewing the evening moon. The white reflecting sand in the forefront of the structure surely would have radiated the soft glow through the landscape, providing both a intensity and serenity. My old riding buddy accompanied me during the trip, and we discussed how this peaceful room in it's idyllic setting, would also make an excellent bicycle viewing location during the day as well, that is when we weren't contemplating Lao Tzu in the spirit of Jozan.
The one bike shop that I know of there that sells classic goods, I'm sorry to say was something less than friendly. I'll give them credit for a nice assortment of old bikes (mostly Italian) hanging from a neat rack on the ceiling attached to a motorized hoist, but the mention of my being of the track bike 'persuasion', and the enquiry into where I might locate such items, seems to have touched a nerve with the shop's proprietor, and what followed was a long rambling bordering on angry discourse as to why track bikes are unfit for Kyoto pedaling. "Thank you", and soon I was back on my 'misguided' way, heading out of downtown with a greater ambition to at least catch a glimpse of the local Keirin track. The track was open, members of the Kyoto university team training, but unfortunately there were no pro races being held that day. Still, a large crowd was assembled there, with fevered betting taking place on races being held at other tracks in the country, the many TV monitors around showing the races and gambling information. I could see why Keirin racing in Japan still has a somewhat bad image, even though the sport has much cleaned up from the days when there was the unsavory influence from organized crime. Most of the people playing the odds, appeared to be more or less from the fringes of society, and I did not see many happy faces going to the windows to collect the winnings. No value judgement intended, but I think it safe to consider such an environment as not being the best of choices when planning a day's family entertainment, and the reason why many parents in Japan are hesitant to see their kids riding drop handlebars. I know it sounds like a stretch, but people still make such a connection. Such is in strong contrast to the pure form of the racing itself, with the striking bright colors of the rider's jerseys, and fine steel lugged bikes, offering a more pleasing picture, along with the athleticism and skill of the professional riders. The coated concrete track itself is in superb condition, with nicely manicured greenery in the middle, and high grandstands two-thirds around. Slightly detracting is the tall fine mesh fence that surrounds the oval, a necessity in the event that a disgruntled spectator might choose to express his dismay with the race results by directing some projectile from the seats. My friend picked up a barely used Ganwell (Jp) keirin chromed frame at a nearby bike shop, very cheap, and we rode the long way back to where we were staying with it hanging around his neck, stopping a few times along the way for some of that cold foamy stuff that rejuvinates, that I know at least a few of you are partial to as well. It was a very fun time with great riding!
Dennis Young
Hotaka, Japan