[CR] Seized cup solved -the ultimate remover!


Example: Framebuilders

Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2010 11:13:15 -0700
From: <cgallegro@charter.net>
To: kim klakow <Akimbo71@gmx.net>, classicrendezvous@bikelist.org, MARK <mhoffman0@snet.net>
In-Reply-To: <20100621214808.294440@gmx.net>
Sensitivity: Normal
Cc: mhoffman0@snet.net
Subject: [CR] Seized cup solved -the ultimate remover!


Hi Gang,

I would like to add a major THANK YOU TO Mark Hoffman you recommended to use 50/50 ATF (automatice transmission fluid) and Acetone and soak.

Some background after 6 months of various methods of removal of a super stubborn fixed left hand swiss cup that was more frozen than anything I have ever tried to remove. I have campy ,var, the sheldon tool removers etc, I tried Kroil (6 weeks) and every other type lube, penitrant, and voodoo method the list recommended, along with some others. The frame had been stored in some type of condition that showed rust and some bubbling of the paint near the bottom bracket. Unknown what caused that. I was at a point where I felt ti was a lost cause and just hang it on the wall.

The 50/50 of ATF and Acetone released this stubborn cup after a week of soaking, I used a rubber stopper to plug the cup hole. I was amazed how quickly it worked. After just a couple of days it actually looked like it had penitrated thru, but I waited un- beleaving it worked that fast!

So, there you go!!

Thanks again to Mark Hoffman!!!

Craig Griffith
San Luis Obispo,Ca.
USA


---- kim klakow wrote:


> Hi all and thanks!

\r?\n> I got my cup removed!! Woo-hoo! I can now finish the build and will then post pictures of my wonderful off-topic Cratoni Perla Verde twin dt bike.

\r?\n> Best,

\r?\n> kim

\r?\n>

\r?\n> PS: Isn't the left hand cup the adjustable one? When I sit on my bike it sure is. Is this a tomato/tomatoe thing or more in the way that cyclo-cross riders have the front brake right? Perhaps a remnant of the confused way the british mistake left and right in the way they use their roads, ....

\r?\n> ;-)

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n>

\r?\n> -------- Original-Nachricht --------

\r?\n> > Datum: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 05:50:05 -0700 (PDT)

\r?\n> > Von: MARK <mhoffman0@snet.net>

\r?\n> > An: classicrendezvous@bikelist.org

\r?\n> > Betreff: Re: [CR] Seized LH cup: How to?

\r?\n>

\r?\n> > I'm a bit confused.  I associate pin spanners with adjustable cups (RH in

\r?\n> > both position and threading) .  Most LH (read fixed cup) have flats, in

\r?\n> > my experience.  Also good to be sure of thread direction on the fixed side.

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> > Heat from a heat gun can be directed directly on the cup, without

\r?\n> > effecting the paint unless you are careless and don't heat it too long.  The

\r?\n> > heating cooling cycle can help break the bond. 

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> > I'm a big fan of the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.  Again, paint can be

\r?\n> > affected, so it needs to be applied carefully and conservatively.

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> > VAR makes the removal wrench with many  sizes for fixed cups.  This is

\r?\n> > similar to the Campy tool in that it grips the flats of the cup. 

\r?\n> > Kingsbridge types use only friction, controled by how tight the tool grabs the sides

\r?\n> > of the cup, and will sometimes slip.

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> > My 2 cents.

\r?\n> >

\r?\n> > Mark Hoffman

\r?\n> > New Britain, CT

\r?\n> > USA